The Gruff

The Story Anchored at the base of the Roebling Bridge for over a decade, The Gruff is owned by Kristin and Avram and run by a staff that knows regulars by name. The three billy goats branding runs throughout — wall murals, interior motifs, a bold exterior mural that stops you in the parking lot. The brick oven is the centerpiece and the whole menu orbits around it.

The Vibe Industrial-casual with genuine neighborhood character. High ceilings, metal chairs, green floors, and floor-to-ceiling windows that open the room up. On Reds game days they get swamped — walking distance from the bridge makes it a natural stop. Fair warning though: the inside TVs face outward and glare can be an issue depending on game time. The patio is more spacious than expected for being tucked in near the river and certainly worth grabbing for the atmosphere — just don't count on catching the game out there. No outdoor TVs, and the inside screens fight the glare depending on game time. Though hearing the stadium roar in the distance on a Reds night might be worth the trip on its own.

The Food The Smoked Brisket pizza was the standout of the first stop at The Gruff — smoked brisket, pickled jalapeño, red onion, smoked cheddar and mozzarella, finished with smoky BBQ and cilantro sauce. The crust has a faint cornmeal complexity that sets it apart. The Bacon & Apple is the crowd favorite according to our bartender/server Jonathan, and the Italian Meat is worth a look on a return visit. He commented his favorite is half vegetarian/half Italian in fact (ironic, but sounds tasty). The burger is competent but forgettable. Tots are tots. The housemade ketchup is thinner and more acidic than commercial — worth noting if you're a tomato person.

The Bottom Line Not a destination, but a genuinely good neighborhood spot with a wood-fired brick oven that delivers. Come for pizza and a beer, and let the staff steer you.